The Beginning of the Second Week

It’s the beginning of the second week, and every day here still seems to reveal something new here. Technically, it is still orientation for another week, meaning all of us are still newbies . Although each day, the familiarity of the city grows and even though street signs do not really exist in India, or at least Pune, you begin to tell which part of the city you are in based upon the recognizable signs, the colorful displays and unique street vendors. It’s still possible to go to some areas of the city and feel like you are in a completely foreign city, which happens to be the case when because acclimation is a slow process.
As the familiarity of the Pune develops, the real eye-opening happens in the once you depart from the city limits and venture off into the countryside. This past weekend I had the opportunity upon the insistence of my host family to join them on an excursion to a couple Hindu temples, which I was reluctant to at first but at the end of day, was more than eager and humbled that I did join them. The expressways surrounding the city are not as congested but just as full of erratic drivers as the crowded streets. It took a while to venture out of the density and sprawl of the city, even more astounding when you consider that vastness of the city itself. After about an hour or so of driving, I started to see an actual change of scenery: gaps existed between the buildings, actual green space as you ventured into more and more of the countryside.
As we continued to drive, the urban sprawl of Pune became nothing more than scattered high-rises and buildings on the horizon. The lusciousness and greenery of the Ghats, the mountain range circling the city limits, replaced it. The varying hues of green, the variation in shrubbery and trees, all of it indicated the previous beauty that was erased with the technological advances, consumerism and constant construction of the growing city behind you. Seeing the Ghats from the car window, I was reminded of pictures of the Andes that I have seen in history books, full of high plateaus and green moss covering the jagged rock face.
The first temple that my family took me to was in a smaller, rural village. Contrary to the 6-lane roads that exist in Pune, the main thoroughfare in this town was barely narrow enough for two compact cars to fit through. There was only one market, and down the road from the market, was the open-air Hindu temple that dated from the early 1800s. The structure itself was not that impressive, though it did have aged, carved woodwork that showed the age and importance of the temple. For a Saturday, it attracted large crowds with lines almost out the door, and I was an obvious outsider. Maharashtra, like most states in Indian, which is a country where the majority of the population is Hindu, allows non-Hindus in temples. Still, as both an outsider and American, I felt some apprehension and qualms about entering the actual shrine site, but upon the insistence on my host family I entered. Within in the temple, a group of several people sat huddled on the marble floor, rocking back and forth, in silent pray to the Nandi, the worshiped bull of Shiva and Parvati. It was a humbling experience and again as an outsider, a ceremony that I was impeded upon so as I observed I quickly exited the temple.
The drive to the second temple was a further adventure into the countryside of Maharashtra. As our car turned off on a desolate, gravel road, we drove through many habitations and collectives with no permanent buildings but homes crafted from sheet-metal and tarps with so low of population, it may not fall under the definition of village. We continued to drive on and on, being the only car for kilometers it seemed like, besides the carts, goat farmers, and many bicyclists. At least five times, my host father asked someone on the side of the road if this was the correct way to the temple, and all of them had the same hand motion, indicating just drive further down the road. I wondered if we would ever reach this elusive temple, but my doubts were unfounded because after an hour or so of driving we reached the temple at the base of a mountain, known by the name of Mt. Heaven. The location was truly awe-inspiring, the varied greens set against the overcast skies created an interesting contrast. Looking in one direction, you were humbled by the imposing size of the Ghats before you and the urban sprawl of Pune behind you.
Mt. Heaven’s Temple was situated on its own pond, as if it was it elusive island rising out of the fog and greenery. Seeing the vibrancy and plethora of colors of the temple, the rich hues of red and pink, the temple depicted all the gods and gurus of Hindu mythology. According to my host cousin, I might be the first American ever to have visited the temple, which considering the breadth and history of travel that Americans have had, I somewhat doubted. Regardless of the accuracy of the claim, there was knowledge that for some of the very young kids in the villages we drove through, my skin was the first whiteness that they probably have encountered ever in their young lives. That fact, that in some areas of the world, there can still be new encounters was truly a profound and humbling effect.

A Week In

Sitting here in our hotel room, not fully awake, it is less than two hours until we meet our host families. As with departing for India, it's not be consumed by feelings of nervousness or apprehension, but the the lack of knowing or unfamiliarity. But this entire week in Pune has already eased those lingering feelings about meeting my host family.

The first day here I was completely adjusting to the vibrancy and energy of the city, learning how to navigate traffic where the drivers disregard all sort of rules. Before it was about making the dash across the street with the sporadic break in traffic, now each day has given more encouragement (maybe fearlessness) that I can walk across the street. After our first rickshaw ride, we were slightly cheated, charged like 20 extra rupees but that is the difference of mere change. Now, after Marathi lessons, I have been able to direct the rickshaw driver on where to go. It provides more than just a sense of comfort but a sense of direction.
Going to the markets, seeing the outrageous prices, I am reminded that this might be the Indian version of our malls, attempting to attract a certain clientele with great deals and perpetuate the growing consumerism of this country. it's not been the differences that are remarkable but the similarities that exist between America and India that are astounding.

Life in the hotel has been a good distraction, meeting a host of new people and friends. Although this is a college town, the night life is limited, which is a positive thing. Let's us concentrate on the cultural immersion as opposed to some artificial fun. Seeing the city during the day has been the greatest part, the hustle and bustle of all that is around us. This is a city that sleeps but during the day does not quiet down, all the continued honking of horns, the constant chatter from those on the street you pass by.

The host arrangement will suit me well, I hope. It's with an older couple, about in their 60s, who along with some other host families in the program, are really good, old college friends. They are young at heart, and I will have an adoring aai, or mother, who loves to cook and travel. Thinking of my host family experience last time in Germany, I know that this one will not be a let down. The family I will be living with is descended from an ancient Hindu warrior caste, one of only 96 families, so in India, I was told it's like an ancient blood line, almost royalty to some. Also, I will be able to bike to classes everyday instead of having to pay for a rickshaw, which will interesting in it's own right. The house itself is in an quieter part of the city, more residential and green, which is much preferred. Guess the wait is no longer, just have to pack up all the scattered clothes and then I'll be meeting them!

The First Full Day

Sitting here in the hotel room with the slow internet connection, I am still adjusting to all the new sights and smells of Pune. The cultural adaptation is not as apparent as I previous thought. This might be naivete speaking since it might be more prominent once I move in with my house family at the start of next week. Right now, I am adjusting within the moment.

It is still a surreal thought to know that I am in India now, and will reside in this country from the next five months. This time in India will be an experience in the fullest sense of the word. A country where I have no familiarity, knowing only a select group of people, slowly expanding from those few. To make the most of my time here, to truly have an experience, I want to interact, observe and connect with the vibrancy around me.

Today was the perfect introduction to the city. After the long flight here and the enjoyment of our first legal beers in the Frankfurt airport during our layover, we landed in Mumbai. Although it was not difficult to pass thru through the immigration and customs checkpoint. it was an interesting introduction, all the officials seemed in a rush, hurrying us thru as if we were cattle but it might this might have been distorted because of the intense jet lag. Exiting the Mumbai airport, the palpable humidity was more than apparent as we meet our ACM representatives. From there, we got in a car and began the three hour drive to Pune. Seeing Mumbai at night was an interesting sight with the juxtaposition of the newly-built, modern buildings to the more grimy apartments, even more contrasted against the light of dawn. The drive was initially disorientating not only because of driving on the opposite sides of the road, but all the construction around us. The roads around were tore up, full of loose bricks and stray dogs. Knowing that those same roads we were driving on would be severely congested within the span of a few hours created an interesting impression. At all other times of the day those roads would be full of honking cars, erratic motorcycles, and oversized trucks.

As we left Mumbai and crossed the bay, the lights of one of most densely populated cities in the world were nothing more than a distant horizon. From there, we began our trek up the mountain roads to Pune, stopping along the way at 4 in the morning at an Indian road stop. Seeing all the Westernized logos of Pepsi and McDonalds gave a familiar impression but the looks from the faces around indicated confusion and intrigue.

Walking around Pune today, we attempted to see a prominent Hindu temple, a place of which we could never find regardless of countless directions we asked for. Upon entering the market area of the city located on one of the busiest streets, we saw all the traditional vendors, the discounted clothing and accessories of which are commonplace in most American malls. In India, our perception as outsiders was acknowledged by faces of those around us, but it was not a look of disapproval or belittlement, but of interest. At the market, many vendors attempted to get our attentions, as with a couple of children asking us for money, but as we were told, we should not express much interest or emotion, which in the moment, is not the hardest thing to do. Our walking journey did not give me any sort of directional bearings but just revealed more of the city to me. We went to the river area, saw drums being made for the Day of Independence in India, and herds of cows grazing along with a few horses. It was interesting to observe all this animals as commonplace in such a populous city, but I guess it is just commonplace for the residents.

Now, it's off to our first dinner in Pune, then maybe some later festivities tonight. We'll see, it's all about living in the moment here, and experiencing! It's only been the first day, but I am only the more eager to see more!